Luxury Cruise Bible

Yachting Alaska's Inside Passage Aboard the Safari Spirit

Submitted by: Andrea M. Rotondo, Luxury Cruise Bible editor from New Jersey, USA

Cruise Details

• Cruise line: American Safari Cruises
• Ship: Safari Spirit
• Date of sailing: 6/21/2008
• Number of nights: 7
• Embarkation point: Petersburg, Alaska
• Ports of call: Alaskan ports of Petersburg, Ideal Cove, LeConte Glacier, Scenery Cove (Thomas Bay), Frederick Sound, Cleveland Passage, Red Bluff Bay, Baranof Island, Takatz Cove, Basket Bay, Pavlov Harbor, Tenakee Springs, Juneau
• Stateroom category: Mariner Stateroom
• Stateroom number: C2
• How did you book your cruise? Direct through cruise line
• How many times have you sailed with this line? 1

Touching Down in Alaska

Ratings

• Overall Rating 5
• Ship Condition 5
• Public Rooms 4
• Stateroom 3
• Food & Wine 5
• Spa, Gym, and Salon n/r
• Entertainment n/r
• Enrichment Program 5
• Internet & Phone Service n/r
• Excursions 5
• Service 5
• Value 4

Alaskans are different. They’re tougher than their contemporaries living in the Lower 48 and are often more creative too, having had to carve out a comfortable life in the wilderness without easy access to warehouse shopping outlets and city centers. Alaskans are also some of the most engaging and friendly people you’ll ever meet. We’ve traveled to Alaska several times and I don’t think we’ll ever tire of the area.

We arrived in Petersburg, a town of 3,000 on Mitkof Island deep in the Tongass National Forest, the night before embarking on American Safari’s Safari Spirit 12-passenger yacht. The island is embraced by Frederick Sound in the northeast, Sumner Straits to the south, and Wrangell Narrows to the west. If you cross Frederick Sound, you’ll hit mainland Alaska in the east and if you cross Wrangell Narrows, you’ll encounter Kupreanof Island in the west.

There are only two ways to get to Petersburg: fly or take the ferry (Alaska Marine Highway or Inter-island Ferry Authority). We opted to fly in from Juneau via Alaska Airlines. While the runway is nice and long and allows for 737s to land, the airport itself is just one tiny wooden building.

Check-in at the Scandia House in Petersburg, Alaska

Since we travel light and only had our carry-on bags and photo gear, we were off the plane and outside in a flash. Then we faltered—hmm, are there taxi stands in Petersburg? We didn’t see any sign of transportation options so I called the Scandia House, where we were staying that night, to ask if they could give me the number of the local cab company (hoping that there was a local cab company! Hey, what do we New Yorkers know about Alaska?). It turns out, Scandia House provides transportation to and from the airport and a van picked us up within minutes.

Check-in was a breeze and after getting a recommendation for dinner, we walked toward the pier and Rooney’s Northern Lights restaurant. Even though it was late June, it was too cold to dine outside on the deck. Instead, we were seated near a window and within five minutes, I caught my first glimpse of an eagle! I knew then that this was going to be a very special trip!

Exploring Petersburg

Early the next morning, we explored downtown in a light rain. (Petersburg gets 106 inches of rain per year!) We visited the hardware store and Rexall Drug, where we picked up some much-needed bug repellant. Sing Lee Alley Books was also a treat. Located in a picturesque home, this shop is packed with Alaska-centric books, field guides, maps, and gifts. We purchased a gorgeous map of the Inside Passage, plus a laminated chart depicting the many types of whales, seals, and sea lions that make Alaska home.

At 11 a.m., we checked out of the Scandia House and waited in the lobby to meet the other Safari Spirit passengers for a day tour of Petersburg. We were curious about who else would be joining us on this adventure. With room for just twelve guests, the yacht promised an intimate environment…which is wonderful if you bond with your fellow travelers and not so hot if you realize you have nothing in common. However, we really shouldn’t have ever worried. American Safari Cruises is all about embarking on an adventure to discover a bit more about nature and yourself. Guests tend to be well traveled, environmentally conscious, introspective, and downright friendly.

We met our traveling companions: Daryl and Peter from London and two couples from Los Angeles: Lisa and Victor and Lucy and Greg. As we were all greeting each other, Lisa and Lucy did a double-take…they had gone to college together years before! What a small world!

Touring with the “Patti Wagon”

Then our tour guide, Patti Norheim, arrived wearing an infectious smile and an American Safari Cruises nametag stating “Patti—Living Legend.” Petersburg has been Patti’s home for over 80 years and she knows just about everything there is to know about the area and its residents. For many years, she owned and operated a popular local gift shop. Patti now handles tours for two small ship cruise lines and runs independent tours through her own company, dubbed the Patti Wagon (907-772-4837).

Patti’s “wagon” is a comfortable red van that seats about 10 people. She drove us around Petersburg while providing an interesting commentary about the places and people we passed along the way. We first visited Sandy Beach Park, where you can still see petroglyphs and prehistoric fish traps—the Tlingits were indigenous to this area. There are also free, first-come-first-serve state-run cabins at Sandy Park and we even saw some deer beachcombing!

We then stopped at Patti’s sister-in-law’s home and enjoyed lunch in the gorgeous dining room facing the water. Since Petersburg has Norwegian roots and is often referred to as “Little Norway“—Peter Buschmann came here from Norway in the late 1800s to open a cannery and many of his countrymen followed him—the menu featured traditional foods such as chicken noodle soup, poached salmon, open-face egg salad sandwiches, and walnut tarts. A lovely crisp white wine, a red wine, and ice tea were also served. We spent some time lounging on the deck and getting to know each other better before moving on to Crystal Lake Hatchery.

After exploring the hatchery we piled back in the van and Patti showed us more of the island, much of it muskeg (bog). At each turn, Petersburg became more and more beautiful. Around 4 p.m., we headed to Patti’s home to enjoy some wine and shrimp cocktail. Patti lives right on Wrangell Narrows and I don’t think better views can be had in all of Mitkof Island! In fact, as we sat on the deck, an eagle called to us from a nearby tree. Everyone sprang into action with their cameras and camcorders! What a special moment!

When the eagle flew away, we settled back down and talked some more with Patti as she showed us some family albums and lots of photos of eagles, bears, whales, and to-die-for sunsets. Sadly, time was ticking away and we had a date with the Safari Spirit. Patti drove us to the dock and we arrived at exactly 5:30 p.m. The crew was ready and waiting for us. Patti introduced us to Captain Tate Grant, lead steward Kim Killingsworth, steward Kim Dahm, expedition leader Nitakuwa Barrett, engineer/mate Danny Blanchard, and chef Dave Gipson.

Day 1 Aboard the Safari Spirit

Upon arriving at the dock, the m/y Safari Spirit crew was ready and waiting for us. On this particular sailing there were just eight passengers, so we knew we’d enjoy one-on-one service and in-depth conversations with each crew member. Steward Kim Dahm showed us to our Mariner cabin, C2, on the lower Cabin Deck and then invited us to the salon once we settled in.

The excitement was building and we couldn’t wait for the official “sail away”! We quickly unpacked, gave our suitcases to Kim to store for the duration of the trip, and scampered upstairs where everyone was gathering for a champagne toast. Captain Tate welcomed us and again introduced us to the rest of the crew. He and expedition leader, Nitakuwa, then outlined the plans for the evening: set sail and travel 16 miles to Ideal Cove, also on Mitkof Island, where we’d anchor for the evening. (American Safari yachts only sail during the day and anchor at night, so guests don’t miss any of the breathtaking scenery.)

But, we had some last-minute business to tend to. One guest’s camera was on the fritz, so the crew contacted a few local shops to see if a replacement could be located. It couldn’t since the shops had closed for the evening, but a crew member lent a camera to this guest for the week. Another guest happened to mention his penchant for spicy tomato juice, so the chef ran out to the local grocery store to pick some up. These incidences, right at the beginning of our journey, reinforced why a cruise with American Safari is so unique. With such a small complement of guests, personalized service is rendered on a level the mainstream cruise lines could never entertain.

With these last-minute issues taken care of, we raised anchor and sailed away from Petersburg. The weather was beautiful and sunny so all guests could be found up on deck, drinking champagne and watching as Petersburg became just another speck on the horizon.

Before we knew it, it was time for dinner. Now, when you sail with American Safari, you’ll immediately notice the attention to detail on the most minute scale. The communal dining table was impeccably and inventively set for each and every meal. As was Chef Dave’s custom, he planned two main dinner entrees to choose from. On this night, the choice was prime rib and risotto or crab and tortellini pasta with cream sauce. (You could also order half-and-half plates so you could try a little of both entrees.) Those with allergies or specific requests were catered to with additional menu alterations.

Every meal was incredible and Chef Dave’s homemade bread and desserts were absolutely scrumptious! I must admit that I enjoyed the food on the Safari Spirit more than other luxury lines. The quality of the ingredients, including fresh fish and seafood caught just hours before it hit our plates, was top notch. Chef Dave also focused on light and healthy lunches with gourmet salads, soups, and sandwiches. Dinners were more hearty and each dessert was better than the one we enjoyed the night before! Definitely five stars!

About the Yacht

Now, a bit about the ship itself. The Safari Spirit is a 105-foot motor-yacht with a beam of 24.5 feet and a 6-foot draft. She was completely rebuilt and redecorated in 2005. It’s perhaps the cleanest and best maintained ship I’ve sailed in years. To be honest, when we sailed everything looked brand new—from the exterior paint job to the carpets and furniture to the condition of the “extras” like binoculars, mustang suits, and sea kayaks.

There are six staterooms. Admiral Staterooms, A1 and A2, on the Library Deck feature sliding glass doors right in front of the king bed (can be converted to two twins). The balcony is just a small step-out—no room for chairs—but it’s a lovely feature. These cabins also feature a Jacuzzi tub and shower. Unlike many cruise ships with tiny bathrooms that are hard to maneuver, all bathrooms on the Safari Spirit are quite spacious and have heated floors! A wonderful addition when cruising the cold Alaskan waters! The “A” cabins also include a comfy armchair.

The next category of stateroom contains just one cabin, C4, the Captain Stateroom. On the lower Cabin Deck, this stateroom boasts a king bed and opening port holes in the bedroom and a Jacuzzi tub/shower combo in the bathroom.

The remaining three cabins are Mariner Staterooms. (We were in C2.) Located just down the stairs from the main meeting area, the Salon, the Mariner cabins feature queen or twin beds, port holes, and a Jacuzzi tub/shower. We found we had plenty of room in C2 and it was very quiet—we never heard any sound from our neighbors and only an occasional noise from upstairs.

All cabins are outfitted with bathrobes and clogs (not slippers as noted in the brochure), a hair dryer, alarm clocks, and a flat-screen TV with DVD player. The one downside of booking this yacht is the lack of Internet service. You will only rarely be within cell service for your phone, but our fellow guests could occasionally use their Blackberries.

Guests spend a lot of time on the Main Deck that features the salon, the dining room, the open bridge, and the aft lounge (which leads to the full-beam swim step that’s the load-in/out point for the skiff and kayaks). The galley is also located on the Main Deck.

Travelers mingle in comfort in the salon with its sectional sofa, two armchairs, a small game table and two high-back chairs, large flat-screen TV with DVD player, and bar (stocked with soda, water, juice, beer, wine, champagne, and other spirits). Each morning from 6:30–8:00 a.m., you’ll find an Early Risers Breakfast set up in the salon. Chef Dave provides a lovely fruit platter, muffins, cereal, and yogurt…enough to tide you over until the full sit-down breakfast at 8. In the afternoon you’ll find a wine bar here and at 6:00 p.m., Chef Dave puts out a delectable pre-dinner appetizer. After dinner, guests retire to the salon for a cordial and some chocolate truffles.

The buffet in the dining room is where you can find coffee, tea, and hot chocolate—day and night. The long, rectangular table seats all guests at one sitting for each meal: generally 8:00 a.m. for breakfast, 12:30 p.m. for lunch, and 7:00 p.m. for dinner.

Of course, everything aboard an American Safari ship is dictated by wildlife. If whales are spotted in the area or bears are on the shore, your meal will be interrupted by your very enthusiastic expedition leader who’ll give you the opportunity to take a break from the fine dining in order to hop in the skiff for a closer look or at the very least step out on deck for a few minutes. This may happen several times during a journey and we were so glad the crew cared enough to let us know when there was something exciting to see.

The bridge is open to all guests and is a great place to hang out and watch for wildlife in the sea and on the shore. You’ll often find the ship’s expedition leader/naturalist on the bridge or out on deck. On either side of the bridge are doors leading out to the forward area of the yacht. This is the other popular place to relax and watch for wildlife

To the rear of the salon is the aft lounge. This half indoor/half outdoor area and is the place where you’ll pull on your rain jacket or mustang suit before hopping in the skiff. In fair weather, meals are eaten here at the beautiful wooden table.

One of my favorite rooms on the Safari Spirit is the library. Conveniently located on the Library Deck, right above the Bridge, you enjoy wonderful views through the near floor-to-ceiling windows. You’ll also, of course, find a selection of books for your reading pleasure.

Right behind the library is the cedar sauna. While I didn’t use this dry sauna, other guests did and they raved about it, especially since there’s a window so you won’t miss any of the gorgeous scenery while you unwind.

At the aft of the Library Deck is the outdoor hot tub, a spectacular place for star-gazing! And, next to the hot tub, you’ll find some exercise equipment (stationary bike and elliptical trainer).

The upper-most deck is the Observation Deck with a “captain’s chair” far forward and a few deck chairs and cocktail tables at aft. Another terrific spot for viewing the scenery.

The Safari Spirit is outfitted with everything needed to enjoy an active vacation, including four two-person sea kayaks, a high-speed skiff (like a Zodiac), mustang suits (to keep you warm when visiting the glaciers or out in the skiff; wearing them is optional), two mountain bikes, dozens of pairs of binoculars, fishing poles and gear, and bug repellant and sun screen, and more. If you need it, chances are it’s aboard the Safari Spirit.

Food & Wine Review

Due to the intimate size of the yacht, accommodating just 12 passengers, we hoped the chef would create some extraordinary meals. We weren’t disappointed.

We spend most of our time in New York City and are lucky enough to dine at excellent restaurants on a weekly basis. We’re not picky, but we are discerning and several luxury cruise lines have disappointed us in the past when it came to food and wine. I’m pleased to report that the Safari Spirit and Chef Dave Gipson exceeded our expectations.

There is one sitting for each meal and guests gather in the dining room on the Main Deck. Chef Dave provides an early risers breakfast from 6:30–8 a.m. in the salon and the full cooked-to-order breakfast starts at 8.

The early risers buffet consisted of muffins (a different homemade flavor each day), toast and English muffins, yogurt, three kinds of cereal, and fruit.

The main breakfast was usually either an egg scramble of some sort with potatoes, bacon and/or sausage, or pancakes. Chef Dave prepared a scrumptous eggs benedict with salmon one morning. You could also order toast, oatmeal, eggs cooked to order, etc. Several types of juice are offered, as is coffee, tea, and hot chocolate.

At about 12:30 p.m., a light lunch was generally served: a soup and salad combo, a sandwich, or something like seafood gumbo. Dessert was always served but if you wanted something more healthful, you could request a plate of fruit or a dish of sorbet.

Freshly baked cookies were often waiting for us n the afternoon after returning from whale watching or hiking.

Appetizers and cocktails were served nightly at 6 p.m. Some of the items Chef Dave presented included salmon cakes, quesadillas, vegetable dumplings with spicy peanut sauce, and smoked pink and white salmon with cheese and crackers.

Complimentary wine and champagne were available each evening, as were select liquors and spirits.

Dinners were hearty and often focused on fish and seafood. The starter was always either salad or soup and then there were two entrees to choose from (or you could have a bit of each). The chef was careful to accommodate everyone’s allergies and preferences. For example, on the first day one guest casually mentioned his dislike of cilantro. After that, any dish with cilantro was personalized for that guest. Again, dessert was served nightly: a delectable peanut butter pie, berry cobbler with ice cream, a lemon/blueberry pudding, and more.

If you visit American Safari Cruises’ website, you’ll read that these cruises are all-inclusive. The line serves premium wine, champagne, and spirits. The wines rotate but here’s a list of what was served during our sailing:

• L’Ecole N 41 cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay, and chenin blanc
• Hedges Family Estate cabernet/merlot
• Apex merlot
• Lava Cap petit syrah
• Robert Mondavi pinot noir
• Elk Cove pinot noir
• Maryhill syrah
• Napa Cellars zinfandel
• Edna Valley chardonnay
• Chateau St. Jean fume blanc
• Santa Margherita pino grigio
• Adelsheim pinot gris
• St. Supery sauvignon blanc
• Alexandria Nicole viogner

As a couple that revels in excellent food and wine, Chef Dave Gipson’s menu and wine pairings truly enhanced our voyage. (See the above photo gallery for photos of some of the entrees and desserts that were served during our cruise.)

Day 2: Ideal Cove, 3 Lakes Trail, and LeConte Glacier

We woke early on Day Two, still not quite used to the time change. Ideal Cove was breathtaking in the morning mist and the day held much promise. We all gathered for breakfast at 8 and enjoyed a hearty meal, knowing we’d be hiking the 3 Lakes Trail in Tongass National Forest within the hour.

I’m not really an outdoorsy person and I’m definitely not all that athletic, but I do enjoy easy-to-intermediate hikes and expedition leader Nitakuwa assured me that this particular hike would be a breeze—she was right. The trail’s elevation was gentle and all hiking was done on a wooden boardwalk covered with fish net. The traction was great…even in the rain (yes, it rained, this is a rain forest after all).

The hardest part was actually getting to the trail. We loaded in the skiff and headed for shore, where we had to gingerly walk over thousands of mussels covered in sea grass. It was very slippery and I was so glad to have taken one of the walking sticks kept aboard the yacht.

After the hike, we headed back to the ship for a terrific lunch before gearing up to visit LeConte Glacier, part of the Stikine Icefield. During the Pleistocene Age, North America was basically covered in sheets of ice. The Stikine Icefield was around in those days and can still be viewed in Alaska, where various glaciers astonish visitors on a daily basis.

In 2006 we spent a few days in Anchorage and Kodiak, Alaska, but we never got very close to a glacier so we had no idea what to expect at LeConte. The experience was more magical than I convey in words.

LeConte is about 21 miles long and one mile wide and is the southernmost tidewater glacier. Sometimes you can get very close to the glacier and at other times, like today, you can only go as far as the icebergs will allow. This particular glacier is actually fairly stable and hasn’t receded as much as other glaciers, such as Juneau’s Mendenhall.

Prior to departing for LeConte on the skiff, Nitakuwa warned us that it would be cold so we’d best wear the mustang suits provided by American Safari. She also told us that Harbor seals live and give birth on the icebergs, so we’d need to be very quiet. These creatures are quite skittish and any sound or sudden movement will cause them to dive into the icy water to hide.

Danny, the engineer and ship’s mate, expertly piloted the skiff and wove in and out of the various glacial outcroppings. It was a gorgeous day and the sun glistened off the ice. It was pin-drop quiet and as we took in the mountains, the ice field, and the hundreds of Harbor seals going about their business, I suddenly felt very tiny and unimportant. What an amazing world we live in when we just take a few minutes to stop and see it in its most natural state!

Despite the cold, the experience was so special that none of us wanted to leave. Nitakuwa came prepared and served us hot chocolate with peppermint schnapps and whipped cream! That kept us going and we stayed out on the water for quite some time.

The scenery was absolutely stunning and affected us all. It was finally time to return to the Safari Spirit and Danny once again crisscrossed ice field. It was just spectacular—something I’ll never forget.

Day 3: Scenery Cove, Cascade Creek Waterfall & Humpback Whales

When we first boarded the yacht, each passenger—all eight of us—discussed what we’d like to see in Alaska. For me and Daryl, bears were high on our lists. By Day 3 we hadn’t seen any, but the visit to LeConte Glacier more than made up for that. I wasn’t prepared for the beauty of the fjord and I’m so glad we had a chance to spend time there—especially since there were no other humans in sight.

On night #2 we anchored in Scenery Cove, part of Thomas Bay on Alaska’s mainland. After breakfast, we got in the skiff and motored over to the beach to find the Cascade Creek Waterfall trailhead. The walk from the beach to the trail was shorter and easier than yesterday’s—phew! However, I thought this hike was much harder. I’m only 5-feet tall and some of the steps up were difficult for me—even with the walking stick. Of course, if you’re hiking to reach the top of a waterfall, you can’t avoid the steep incline! But, if you’ve got problems with your knees, you may want to sit this one out.

Since everyone else in our group was much more athletic than me, I was a bit worried about lagging behind. However, you need never fear that. The expedition leader usually takes the lead and another crew member, in this case Kim Killingsworth, follows up in the rear. When Kim saw I was hesitating a bit, she radioed Nitakuwa and they decided to break the group in two. Kim, Daryl, Peter, and I lagged back a bit…it was nice of everyone to slow the pace for me and Peter used the opportunity to take lots of photos. Since this is bear country, both Kim and Nitakuwa were carrying bear spray. I asked Kim if she ever had to use it and she never has. She says as long as you make noise on the trail and don’t carry food, bears will pretty much leave you alone. That’s good news! Because while I really wanted to see a bear, I didn’t want to surprise one on the trail!

We made it to the top of the waterfall where there was a small bridge…just stunning! Now to turn around and get back down! Yikes! I will admit that I had a somewhat rough time on the descent and did slip once. But, it was one of those things where I was standing one minute and before I knew what happened, I was sitting on the ground. I wasn’t hurt anywhere…just surprised. I guess my feet went out from under me. After that, I just sat on each rock and shimmied down, like a toddler going down the stairs on her bum. Thank goodness for rain pants! Definitely pack them! We used them every single day. I’m glad I did this trail, but it was definitely tougher than I expected.

Once we returned to the Safari Spirit, we enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then started watching for whales as we sailed Frederick Sound. I had just gone to our cabin to take a short nap when I literally heard Nitakuwa’s whoop of excitement—a pod of humpback whales was coming right toward us and there was a baby with them!

I grabbed my camcorder and raced to the deck just in time to see several of the humpbacks “mug” us. Evidently, the baby got too close to our ship and the adults came between her and us to try and coax her further away. It was such a surprise! None of us could believe it! Captain Tate turned away from the whales a bit since you’re not supposed to get so close to them but in this case, they came to us! Once we established the correct distance between vessel and whales, we went back to enjoying the show.

Before we knew it, we had spotted the spouts of dozens of humpbacks so Nitakuwa suggested that we board the skiff for a closer look. Wow! We motored out to the area of concentrated spouts, throttled back the engine, and then just waited. Soon, we heard the telltale whoosh of the spout and saw several whales surface just a matter of yards away! It was unreal!

A humpback’s tail can be as wide as 12 feet across and now, from this vantage point, I could truly see how massive these animals are. Yet, they are so graceful as they wave their tails in the air before diving deeper. At this point, we put the hydrophone in the water so we could eavesdrop on the whale calls and songs. It was a glorious encounter!

As we returned to the ship, Daryl and I commented that we could forego the bears because the whale encounter was so amazing. But, who knew what tomorrow would bring.

Day 4: Cleveland Passage, Whales & Steller Sea Lines

On Day 4 we woke in beautiful Cleveland Passage (mainland Alaska). The only thing on the day’s agenda was exploring Frederick Sound aboard the Safari Spirit and the skiff. We’ve never been fans of “sea days,” but on this type of cruise you’ll really need one! All this hiking, kayaking, and skiffing is tiring! But, to be honest, even the sea day is very active since you’re scanning the water for signs of whales, seals, sea lions, and porpoise and watching the shore for bears.

In addition to some awesome humpback sightings, we took the skiff out to Brothers Islands and a Steller sea lion haul-out. Despite their loud barks, these animals are actually quite cute.

The slower pace allowed for some great conversation on the yacht and Nitakuwa gave a humpback whale presentation during cocktail hour. Nitakuwa is just one reason this trip was so fantastic. Her enthusiasm knows no bounds and she can answer just about any question you may have about the wildlife you’re seeing. I only wish we had more time for her enrichment lectures.

We did enjoy one special surprise on this day. American Safari Cruises launched a new ship, the 36-passenger Safari Explorer, in May 2008. She was passing by so the captains decided to let passengers skiff to the opposite ship for a tour. It was quite fun touring another American Safari’s largest ship and comparing it to the Safari Spirit (the cruise line’s smallest yacht).

After the tour was complete, we received a new passenger: Dan Blanchard, the CEO and president of American Safari Cruises. He spends several weeks each season visiting the yachts, talking with passengers and looking for ways to improve the experience. Dan is a fascinating character who’s led a very interesting life. He fit right in with our passenger dynamic and we really enjoyed making his acquaintance.

During the cruise, many guests commented to the crew that everyone seems so close…a tight-knit group with a true family atmosphere. Well, it turns out that many members of the same family work for the cruise line. For example on this sailing, our lead steward Kim Killingsworth is Dan Blanchard’s sister and Mate Danny is, in fact, Dan Blanchard’s son. No wonder this team is so good!

Day 5: Red Bluff Bay, Chasing Orcas & Baranof Warm Springs

On night #4 we anchored at Barnaof Island’s Red Bluff Bay and we explored the island itself on Day 5. It’s lovely there with the shore cliffs punctuated by spectacular waterfalls. Early this morning we explored Red Bluff Bay via kayak and skiff. I didn’t feel like getting in the kayak so my husband Len partnered with Dan Blanchard. Since Dan is the CEO of American Safari, certain rules didn’t necessarily apply to him…like staying four feet away from the shore while kayaking. The intrepid duo stepped out on shore when they caught sight of a young bear. The poor thing looked a bit thin and was definitely wary of the visitors. Len snapped a few photos and then it was back in the kayak while the bear meandered off into the woods.

After lunch we all experienced a once-in-a-lifetime gift from the Alaskan wildlife: we were able to follow an orca pod, traveling quite fast, for nearly half an hour. Just magic! We first saw the pod from the deck of the Safari Spirit. Once Nitakuwa realized how many orcas were out there—and that they were breaching—she and Danny loaded us into the skiff and raced off to get closer.

As we approached, we saw that a baby was among the pod and that the group was traveling parallel to the shore…as if they had someplace important to be. Our skiff mirrored their speed and heading and we were treated to something very few people ever see. Jaw-dropping doesn’t even begin to describe the experience. When the skiff started running low on fuel, we had to turn back, but the orcas kept right on going.

Next we sailed to the very small town of Baranof Springs. There is only one year-round resident and about 25 summer residents. The activity here was a hike to Baranof Warm Springs. While that sounded like fun, Len and I wanted to relax so we stayed behind with Captain Tate and Chef Dave. It was like having our own private yacht!

Later in the evening we anchored at Takatz Cove, also on Baranof Island. Another delicious dinner from Chef Dave and then lights out.

Day 6: Takatz Cove & Basket Bay’s Marble Grotto

With just two more days of our itinerary to go, everyone was commenting how fantastic it had been thus far. We kept joking that our group had good karma since we’d lucked out and had seen just about all the animals on our “must see” list: eagles, bears, humpback and orca whales, seals, and sea lions. The weather had been gorgeous too with fair skies and some sun. Though it rained, it was never very heavy.

The morning was spent kayaking and skiffing around Takatz Cove. The waterfalls here are so stunning; it’s hard to believe that don’t all have names. But, the topography continually changes in Alaska and a powerful waterfall this season may just be a trickle next year. While skiffing today I focused my attention on the water line and saw sea stars, Harbor seals, Harlequin ducks, and so much more. It was drizzling and a bit cold, but that didn’t stop us from getting close to the waterfall to feel its power. What a rush!

Around 4 p.m. we took off in the skiff for Basket Bay and the Marble Grotto. You can only visit this location at certain tide levels and it was just about right when we arrived. Just as we entered the grotto, a large eagle soared overhead. It couldn’t have been scripted better if it was the opening scene of a movie! We couldn’t go very far into the grotto due to some rock outcroppings, but it was beautiful.

As we settled down to dinner we thought we were done for the day, but nature had other ideas. A large brown bear was spotted on shore so we ditched dessert, got in the skiff, and slowly made our way over. We got within feet of this bear—so close that I could hear him munching on the grass! I can’t tell you how this made me feel. I was in awe but also somewhat sad. Years ago, brown bears could be found all over the United States. Their range now is quite small. I hope Alaska safeguards these very special animals.

Our normally gregarious group was unusually quiet as we boated back to the Safari Spirit. The encounter with this bear affected each of us and left us all, literally, speechless. We had previously joked that Captain Tate would have to dress up as a bear for a photo op if we didn’t get close enough to the real thing. Well, Tate was off the hook on that count. Again, an experience none of us expected, but we wouldn’t trade it for anything else.

After we all returned to the boat, a few passengers went back out with Danny to set some crab pots. Then, after a few drinks in the salon, everyone drifted back to their staterooms and I’m pretty sure we all dreamed of orcas and bears that night.

Day 7: Pavlov Harbor and Tenakee Springs

On our last day aboard the Safari Spirit, we were all quite sad. Viewing the Alaskan wilderness in such an intimate way had touched us all. We’d also grown quite fond of each other—our particular group really clicked.

This was the rainiest day of the trip, but it didn’t stop us from enjoying a full schedule. We began with kayaking and skiffing around Pavlow Harbor at Chichagof Island. One guest even did some fishing and caught a salmon.

Then, we spotted a mother bear and three cubs on the beach. We ran to the skiff and got incredibly close to the trio. Further down the beach we also saw some deer.

We then headed to the metropolis of Tenakee Springs with its 75 residents. There’s a charming old-fashioned general store and a bakery that also sells some Alaskan art.

After exploring the town, we went for a nature walk along Indian River Trail. This was my favorite hike since a local dog “adopted” us and led us along the path. A bear had been sighted in the area, so I was doubly glad for the dog’s presence. As the hike came to an end, the rain picked up and we hurried down to the dock to board the skiff and head back to the Safari Spirit for our farewell dinner.

After dinner we enjoyed a slide show and shared many laughs. Expedition leader Nitakuwa took photos throughout the trip, as did several guests. At the end of the evening we were presented with a CD that included a map of our itinerary, all the photos from the week, contact information for each other and the crew, and some recipes from Chef Dave. It was a thoughtful touch. The next day we’d arrive in Juneau and go our separate ways.

The champagne had flowed all week, but tonight we toasted newfound friendships, conservation, and adventure. Sailing with American Safari Cruises was an exceptional experience and I would do it again in a heartbeat.

Throughout the week, I was reminded of the words of Mark Twain:

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Thank you, Dan Blanchard, Captain Tate, Nitakuwa Barrett, Kim Killingsworth, Danny Blanchard, Kim Dahm, and Dave Gipson for taking such good care of us and showing such deep respect for Alaska’s wildlife.

For More Information…

…talk with your travel agent, call American Safari Cruises at (888) 862-8881, or visit their website.