Luxury Cruise Bible

Follow Travel Expert Donna Hull Aboard Regent's Mariner

Luxury Cruise Bible is thrilled to announce “Dispatch from Donna,” a new series of live cruise updates starting September 9, 2009, from baby boomer travel expert Donna Hull. She and her husband Alan set sail today from Vancouver aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner. They’ll spend 52 days navigating Alaska, crossing the Bering Sea, and then visiting numerous ports in Japan, South Korea, China, Vietnam, Thailand, and Singapore. View Donna’s complete Regent Mariner itinerary here.

Donna is no stranger to Regent Seven Seas Cruises and has frequently sailed with them over the years. She’ll offer up her eagle-eye observations and will tell you what it’s like to spend eight weeks aboard one of the most luxurious cruise ships of our day.

Donna will blog live from the Mariner once a week, as her schedule (and Internet access) allow. Her journal installments will also be archived right here at LuxuryCruiseBible.com.

If you’re not already familiar with Donna’s work, visit her blog: My Itchy Travel Feet. You can also follow Donna on Twitter.

She’s your go-to expert when it comes to active baby boomer travel. She’s written about everything from jeep adventures in Canyon de Chelly to cruising above the Arctic Circle. Her work has been published by AZ3Sixty Magazine, Lovin Life After 50, Fifty Plus, Live Life Travel, Oro Valley Marana Magazine, and many others. She’s also the baby boomer travel columnist for iExplore and one of the “Outsiders” at AdventureUs.

Dispatch from Donna: September 16, 2009 in Alaska

Greetings from Regent Seven Seas Mariner. As Andrea has previously told you, I’m Donna Hull, travel writer and publisher of My Itchy Travel Feet, The Baby Boomer’s Guide to Travel. My husband, Alan, and I are on a 53-day cruise (counting crossing the International Date Line) that will take us from Vancouver to Singapore, with stops in Alaska, Russia, Japan, S. Korea, Hong Kong, China, Viet Nam, Thailand, and Singapore. Along the way, I’ll be gathering port information, as well as impressions about shipboard life, to share with you.

First up? Marvelous, majestic, massive, mind boggling Alaska. Even though I’m well traveled and have seen my share of beautiful sights, I wasn’t prepared for this state’s scenic beauty. On our first morning, Alan and I enjoyed breakfast on the back deck at La Veranda while forested views of the Inside Passage passed before us. Since then, it’s been hard to peel our eyes away from the natural beauty that is constantly parading by, just off the cabin balcony.
Alaska’s Gorgeous Inside Passage

In our first port, Ketchikan, the misty, gray morning taught us our first Alaskan lesson—be prepared for changeable weather. And, don’t expect an excursion to be canceled because of rain, which isn’t surprising, considering the 162 inches of precipitation that Ketchikan receives annually.

Since ships dock right in town, shopaholics have no problem walking to the colorful clapboard buildings housing galleries and jewelry stores. Cruise excursions range from bear-watching safaris to zip line adventure to a touristy lumberjack show. Our choice? A floatplane tour of Misty Fjords National Monument. The plane detoured around low-lying clouds, then up one of the monument’s many fjords before briefly landing so that we could experience the quiet solitude of Alaskan wilderness.

As the ship progressed towards Juneau, we were treated to an early morning sail up Tracy Arm, one of Alaska’s ruggedly beautiful fjords. The Observation Lounge was filled to capacity as lecturer, Terry Breen, provided commentary. Good weather allowed the Captain to take Mariner 18 miles up the narrow fjord for spectacular views.

By the time we reached an afternoon docking in the former gold rush town of Juneau, the weather turned foul. Alaska taught us a second lesson—flexibility. Waiting under a covered awning in the port, we were advised that the Helicopter Glacier Walkabout had been cancelled. But, the helicopter flight to Mendenhall Glacier was still available. After boarding a bus, we reached the heliport, donned glacier boots and life vests before learning that it was unsafe to fly.

But, we were rewarded the next day in Skagway. As many passengers stepped aboard the White Pass Railway for the mountain ride to White Pass and back, Alan and I boarded a speedcat. The one-hour covered boat ride to Glacier Point provided views of mountains with hanging glaciers and waterfalls plunging into the water while sea gulls fished for breakfast.

After a school bus ride through the temperate rainforest, the group arrived at a staging area, where we were equipped with rubber boots, waterproof overalls, and jackets. From there, it was a short walk through the forest to the river where we boarded canoes for a journey to the foot of Davidson Glacier. After the group paddled for a while, our guide turned on the motor to the canoe as we passed back and forth through the choppy water in front of the glacier, the wind whipping around us. The wild, exhilarating experience provided one of the most outstanding cruise excursions that Alan and I have ever taken.

That afternoon, Terry Breen offered commentary as Mariner sailed through Taiya Inlet, a deep-water fjord where the mountains plunge straight down into the sea. With a comfortable seat in the Observation Lounge, champagne glass in hand, we watched as majestic mountains slipped by giving us another scenic sail-away.

Stay tuned for next week’s installment when I’ll tell you about our remaining Alaskan ports: Sitka, Hubbard Glacier, Seward, Kodiak, and Dutch Harbor.

Dispatch from Donna: September 23, 2009—The Alaskan Outposts of Sitka, Kodiak, and Dutch Harbor

This is travel writer Donna Hull’s second installment of “Dispatches from Donna,” a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner.

Greetings from Regent Seven Seas Mariner. As my husband, Alan, and I complete our second week on this journey from Vancouver to Singapore; the splendid state of Alaska continues to enthrall us with majestic but rugged beauty.

If scenery could be called charming, that’s how I would describe Sitka. Small islands are sprinkled around Sitka Sound, many of them populated with log homes, which can be rented through the U.S. Forest Service… if you’re patient enough to withstand the five-year waiting list.

After tendering to shore, passengers disperse to a variety of cruise excursions, including whale watching or dry-suit snorkeling. But, the Russian-influenced town, and surrounding area, is easy to explore on your own.

Alan and I take advantage of the sunny weather by walking through the commercial district before continuing out of town to Sitka Historical National Park, where a series of paths lead to 18 Tlingit and Hiada totem poles. From there, it’s a short walk over a salmon-filled river and through the woods to the Raptor Center. The facility rehabilitates injured bald eagles and other wild birds for release back into the Alaskan wilderness.

The next day, when Mariner arrives in Hubbard Glacier, she is the only ship to enjoy the sunny scene in Desolation Bay. Passengers crowd into the Observation Lounge for the early morning view of the glacier as well as the St. Elias and Fairweather mountain ranges that loom in the background. As Captain Felice Patruno pirouettes the ship in continuous circles, the glacier calves sending a spray of water into the air, thrilling the lucky photographers who have captured the scene.

Rain pours in Seward as some passengers depart while a new group boards joining us on the journey across the Bering Sea. Since no excursions are offered, we use the time to take care of laundry and other business. A couple of hearty guests rent cars, braving the bad weather, to view the surrounding countryside.

Our Alaska exploration continues when Mariner stops at Kodiak Island, home of Kodiak bears, fish canneries, and WWII history. With stormy seas the previous night, our arrival in Kodiak has been questionable. But, Captain Patruno prevails, giving us the opportunity for a two-mile hike in Abercrombie State Park, where dramatic coastal scenes compete with abandoned bunkers and other artifacts remaining from WWII.

After a day sailing through the Aleutian Islands, we reach the end of our Alaskan ports: Dutch Harbor. The Japanese bombed this secluded outpost during WWII. Stark, tree-less mountains ring the harbor where commercial fishing is now king. Passengers are treated to school bus rides through the small enclave for glimpses of life at what seems like the edge of the world.

When we leave the calm waters of Dutch Harbor, Mariner sets sail across the Bering Sea, known for its storminess. Next stop? Siberia.

Dispatch from Donna: September 30, 2009—Russia’s Kamchatka Peninsula

This is travel writer Donna Hull’s third installment of “Dispatches from Donna,” a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner.

The gray, choppy waters of the Bering Sea are a good predictor of the change that is coming to our itinerary. The smooth, carefree entry into Alaskan ports is behind us. Now, as we approach the Kamchatka Peninsula of far-eastern Russia, passengers learn of the bureaucratic hurdles they must jump over before walking down the gangplank into Siberia.

Patience is the word of the day. There’s a precise procedure to follow that includes collecting passports and boarding tickets before presenting ourselves to Russian immigration authorities. A handsome, but stern, official checks for the orange stamp in my passport, turns to the photograph page then looks me up and down. No smiling or joking allowed. His beautiful assistant marks off my arrival in Petropavlovsk, Russia with a black checkmark.

After tendering to the dock, passengers proceed to excursions that include countryside visits to a dacha, city tours with stops at cultural and military museums, volcano flyovers, or scenic boat tours. Alan and I have chosen a “Visit to Petropavlovsk’s Home Volcanoes by Army Truck.”

The stark, square Soviet-style apartment buildings of the town are just what we expected. But the beautiful Siberian landscape surprises us. Volcanoes, some with perfect cones sprinkled with snow, rise above the clouds. Forests of beech trees are just beginning to turn gold while watermelons still crowd roadside vegetable stands.

Our drive into the Kamchatka countryside becomes a bumpy journey up a drive riverbed. The excursion is exactly as described by the Mariner travel desk. Arriving at the base camp at Naluchevo Nature Park, we enjoy a simple lunch of grilled salmon before embarking on a two-hour hike accompanied by an exuberant young Russian guide. Two smoking volcanoes are constant companions and a photographer’s delight.

With around 20 cruise ship visits per year; the tourism infrastructure in Petropavlovsk is basic, at best. English is not widely spoken and even many of the guides speak only passable English. But, this is an opportunity to experience the true flavor of an area that hasn’t been changed much by tourism. Isn’t that what travel is all about?

Dispatch from Donna: October 7, 2009—Japan’s Northern Islands with Regent Seven Seas

This is travel writer Donna Hull’s fourth installment of “Dispatches from Donna,” a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner.

As we enter our fourth cruising week, Mariner sails toward Japan. Traveling from north to south means the ship visits the smaller ports of Hakodate and Sendai before introducing passengers to cosmopolitan Tokyo and Osaka. After cruising the wilds of Alaska and Siberia, it’s like easing our way back into civilization.

At every Japanese port, Mariner is met with official delegations that swap plaques and speeches with Mariner Captain, Felice Patruno. In Hakodate and Sendai, dancing troupes wave gaily as the ship pulls into port. Fireboats spray a watery welcome in Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagasaki. Performers singing a brief excerpt from the opera, Madame Butterfly, elicit tears from the audience before Mariner leaves Nagasaki. Throughout our stay, Japan proves to be clean and efficient with a polite population that is friendly to visitors.

On the morning of Mariner’s arrival in her first Japanese port, Hakodate, passengers are required to present themselves to authorities to be fingerprinted and photographed. By the time we clear Japanese customs, the stay in Hakodate has been whittled down to a few hours. Standing on the observation deck on Mt. Hakodate, I wonder what adventures Regent could find for us if we only had more time to experience the mountainous countryside.

In Sendai, we’re introduced to the first of the many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples included on the ship’s tour excursions. According to our guide, most Japanese claim to be secular; but these historical sites are crowded with both international and local tourists. Since the cities we are visiting were bombed during World War II, much of what we see is a rebuilt version of the original buildings.

An overnight stay in Tokyo gives us plenty of time to explore. The port authority runs a shuttle for Mariner guests to the Ginza shopping district. We brave the subway system for a ride to Akihabara, an electronic lovers paradise, where the streets and alleyways are lined with shops selling every electronic gadget known to man.

The next day, our Tokyo overview excursion takes us to Meiji Jingu, a shrine surrounded by a large park in the heart of Tokyo. The morning bus ride across town allows us to observe Tokyoites as they stream from the subways toward another workday. Later, at yet another Buddhist site, Asakusa Kannon Temple, row after row of shops selling Japanese souvenirs compete for our attention.

When Mariner spends an overnight in Osaka, it’s the end of a segment for some guests while new voyagers join us for the sail to Hong Kong. After a rainy afternoon arrival, we visit Osaka Castle plus Shitennoji Temple, believed to be the oldest Buddhist temple in Japan.

The following day, Alan and I take advantage of our “in transit” status to book an eight-hour excursion to Kyoto, where many historical buildings survived World War II. Joining hundreds of Japanese school children, we tour Nijo Castle, the home of a 1600s-era shogun and a UNESCO World Heritage site. The children laugh and giggle as they pass us, saying “hello, hello.” We answer back. The flirting continues throughout the passageways of the mighty shogun’s home. Later, the Golden Pavilion dazzles us. I can only imagine how this area must look in the spring when it’s decorated with the blossoms from hundreds of cherry trees.

Mariner says goodbye to Japan with a stop in Nagasaki. Standing on deck, viewing the low mountains surrounding the harbor, it’s hard to imagine that an atomic bomb devastated the area. On a visit to the Peace Park, we walk in a pleasant plaza where plaques and statues, donated by nations from around the world, display hopes for peace. A sobering visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum ends when we stand at the detonation point of the bomb.

The Nagasaki lights twinkle as Mariner slips out of the harbor on a late-night sail-away. I’ve been impressed and intrigued by Japan. The time here has left me curious to visit again. But, on this trip, more ports remain to be explored. Next up, a short stop in Korea before visiting the Chinese cities of Dailin, Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong.

Dispatch from Donna: October 16, 2009—Discovering China with Regent Mariner

This is travel writer Donna Hull’s fifth installment of “Dispatch from Donna,” a weekly update during her 52-day voyage aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner.

Ahoy there! Booming, dynamic China is the star on week five of our Regent Seven Seas Mariner cruise from Vancouver to Singapore.

But first, we make a brief stop in Inchon, South Korea. Most passengers opt for the one-hour bus excursion to Seoul for a short introduction that includes a visit to Jogyesa, a practicing Buddhist temple, views of downtown high-rises, and the chance to shop for South Korean souvenirs along Insadong Antique Street. Arriving back at the ship, there’s still time to walk into Inchon where the alleyways contain a strange mix of fish market stalls, beauty shops and clothing stores.

Dalian, Mariner’s first Chinese port, eliminates any of my pre-conceived notions about China. International stores and 5-star hotels line wide flower-filled avenues near the port area. Alan and I choose to explore via the “Dalian Highlights and a Family Visit” excursion. The journey takes us to People’s Square where colorful kites fill the air. Afterwards, we walk through a working fish market, with seafood of every description on display. The tour continues out a side door into the bleak housing area for the seafood merchants. An elderly Chinese woman watches, then waves to us, from the windows of the Soviet style block apartments.

The bus drives to a more modern area where passengers divide into small groups to visit a typical Chinese apartment. The climb up a dirty, concrete stairwell is a stark contrast to the tiny, clean apartment with sleek wood floors where our Chinese hostess, aided by two English-speaking university students, shares her way of life with us. On the bus ride back to the port, tour guide, Joe, sings Chinese and American songs, a custom we will experience on most of the bus excursions in China.

When Mariner docks in Tianjin, all passengers are treated to a complimentary night at an upscale hotel in Beijing, with meals (our accommodations are at the luxurious Regent Beijing Hotel). The three-hour bus ride into the city includes lunch at a jade factory followed by a visit to the Great Wall. The next day, cruisers tour The Forbidden City before returning to the ship.

Those wishing to extend their stay in Beijing (which includes Alan and myself), purchase a second night’s lodging. One day is simply not enough to explore a city teeming with historical sites wedged between modern day high-rises.

Although Regent offers a half-day complimentary tour, we’ve hired a private guide for an in-depth experience. Beginning our day at the Temple of Heaven, we watch as retirees spend their morning practicing Tai Chi or ballroom dancing on the park-like outer grounds. Later we walk through what seems like a never-ending array of rooms and courtyards in The Forbidden City.

Our visit coincides with the last days of the national holiday celebrating the Communist China’s 60th anniversary. Red lanterns hang from doorways while the trees and shrubbery are lit with colorful lights adding to a festive, holiday feel. At Tiananmen Square, parade floats from China’s provinces line the edges of the vast space. Alan and I appear to be the only Westerners walking among thousands of Chinese as our guide leads us across the area in the late afternoon sun.

The return bus trip to the ship includes a combination of old and new Beijing. We explore the Bird’s Nest Olympic Stadium before visiting the Summer Palace for a stroll through the gardens followed by a multi-course Chinese lunch.

The hustle and bustle only increases as Mariner sails into Shanghai. Ship traffic crowds the Huangpu Jung River like rush hour on a Manhattan street. Junks, barges and ships represent old and new, reflecting the feeling that is Shanghai. A ride on the ultra-fast Maglev train complements a visit to the 18th century complex at Yu Garden.

A free shuttle bus transports cruisers to Julong Silk and Handicrafts Market in Dagu Lu Street. Armed with an address list, printed in English and Chinese, provided by the ship, Alan and I jump into a cab for a day of shopping. Along the way, we meet an American ex-pat who informs us that visitors to Shanghai must buy pearls, silk and perfume. Dodging street vendors on Nanjinglu Pedestrian Shopping Street, we find plenty of friendly, English speaking shopkeepers. Later that night, we sit in one of Mariner’s restaurants watching as passengers and crewmembers return to the ship loaded down with purchases.

The Chinese portion of our cruise ends with a multi-night stay in Hong Kong harbor. Cruisers tour Aberdeen, the old fishing village, for a ride along the waters in a motorized sampan, before shopping in the narrow lanes of Stanley Market. A cable car ride to Victoria Peak, with its panoramic view of the city, offers the perfect ending to our Hong Kong stay.

Next week, I’ll take a break from describing ports to tell you about life onboard the luxury cruise ship, Mariner.

—Donna Hull for LuxuryCruiseBible.com

Follow Donna on Twitter, visit her blog, and return here next week for the next “Dispatch from Donna” as she travels for 53 days aboard Regent’s Seven Seas Mariner from Vancouver to Singapore.

Stay tuned for the first “Dispatch from Donna” post later this week.